April 27, 28, 29, 30—One night stands along the Oregon Trail
April 27, John Day River
The Army Corps of Engineers has a small camp at the mouth of the John Day River where it enters the Columbia. A very nice facility, $12/night with full hookups using our National Park senior pass. As we progressed away from Portland the weather improved and was delightful when we made camp, if a little breezy.
Brenda was still recovering from the explorations of the oral surgeon back in Portland and took to bed. I found a path above the camp that ran along the river. I walked for six miles through some of the most beautiful terrain I have ever had to myself, and I don’t say that lightly. The john day river has its own gorge, steep slopes and cliffs descending from maybe a thousand feet, covered in new grass. The wind kicked the river up in mist below which made rainbows just above the surface. I saw herds of antelope or deer running across the hills from miles away. The river meandered side to side and around every turn was another enchanting vista. I just kept walking. (Had to negotiate three fences but there were no warning signs and it seemed like they were designed to accommodate the determined hiker.)
A lot of things are named for the early explorer John Day. On one of his adventures, right near where the ACE camp is, he was taken prisoner by local residents. His belongings were taken from him, including the clothes on his back. He had to hike 80 miles back in the cold buck naked. Seemed like a civilized way for the locals to send a message, I think.
April 28—Farewell Bend, OR
Found a lovely state camp along the Snake River. Early settlers floated down the Snake from its eastern reach to this point, then headed overland to Oregon, hence the name Farewell Bend. Wagon ruts worn into the stone near the camp. I took a walk down along the river a ways then hiked the mountain overlooking the camp for my own personal cardiac stress test which I passed apparently. Our trailer is in the trees to the right of the island in the picture. This is the southernmost point of the 1000+ mile Snake; it flows right to left and heads north here to the Columbia, of which it is the principal tributary. Idaho on the left bank of the river. Got cold here at night, some coyotes in the distance.
April 29—Twin Falls, ID
Drove around Boise, through the unspoiled lands along the Snake river. Winds howling across the vast basin. Took another thirty detour off the highway through Hagerman Valley, a stunning gorge with waterfalls pouring out of the rock escarpment down to the Snake. The aquifer that supports the farms along the flatland above the cliffs is one of the most bountiful in the country. The area is rich in fossils and fishing. I had left a message at an rv park with hot springs. They never called me back and of course they were booked up when I arrived. Five hours of driving to a dead end. We wound up at an unappetizing rv camp in the unappetizing area around Twin Falls.
The Perrine Bridge crosses the Snake here and is one of the world’s favored sites for jumping off with parachute, it is that high. It is one of the only places in the US where you can do so without a permit. We stopped to watch some of these thrill-seekers. Gave us a thrill, not pleasant, watching people pitch themselves off this high bridge. Evil Knevel tried to jump the snake here with a jet-powered motorcycle, which motorcycle flamed out over the river leaving the daredevil to rely on his chute and suffer the opprobrium of his fans.
April 30—Honeyville, Utah
A crowded but beautifully-situated camp north of Salt Lake City. We got to soak in the hot springs there, the most mineral-laden springs on earth, according to their PR. Kit Carson soaked here, and Charles Fremont.
You probably can’t tell from the picture but the sign to the right says “Elwood City Cemetery.” The town is located near Honeyville and we had to take a look see. Not much to look at, and no way to discover the origin of its naming. No Elwoods in the boneyard.
Quite cold here and a little investigation revealed that there was a lot of cold in our future. Wyoming, Nebraska and Iowa were projecting colder-than-average temps. I was particularly concerned about making the mountain crossings in Wyoming. There was rain and freezing across the state, with black ice reported on the high passes. We could wait it out but decided on a bold course to head south and cross the US at a lower latitude. It also means negotiating the Rockies north to south. part of the route is on Utah State Route 6 which is called “The deadliest road in the US” (how could one not go?) This trajectory would put us in vicinity of Albuquerque again, so, guess what, we’re heading back to ABQ for another visit.
Without getting the timeline too confusing, developments arose just in the past hours that will put us in Palm Springs California in mid-May. We had planned to be back home by mid month but the situation is evolving. Will explain later.
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